Zero Waste in Fashion with Shelly Xu: How Pattern Making changes "the Pattern"
Zero-waste pattern making is not an aesthetic compromise, but rather a redefinition of the design process, made possible by technology and supported by a deep understanding of materials, cutting, and scaling. Entrepreneur and tech innovator Shelly Xu is a pro in this field!
For a start: What is Zero-waste pattern-making? There is no clear-cut definition, but the way Designer and tech-innovator Shelly Xu puts it and does it, gives a great idea to understand the process more. Zero-waste pattern-making involves avoiding waste during the design process rather than reducing it afterwards. Rather than cutting classic pattern pieces from a rectangle of fabric, which inevitably creates waste, the individual pieces are reshaped so that they fit together seamlessly like a puzzle.
iF Design USA Managing Director Lisa Gralnek talked to Shelly for the XYZ Podcast on "The Future of Pattern Making" - read an abridged interview-version below!
Lisa: Please give us some insight into what all this really means - in practical terms!
Shelly: Zero-waste-pattern-making can mean, for example, repositioning seams, merging or dividing pattern pieces, developing functions (e.g. reinforcements or tapes) from the main material itself. The finished garment looks and feels familiar, but is created using a different cutting logic. It involves designing pattern pieces that fit together seamlessly, like a puzzle. This may involve placing seams differently, combining pieces or redistributing them. While the final garment looks familiar, it is created from a completely new pattern.
Shelly Xu, Entrepreneur and founder of Shelly Xu Design (SXD)
Shelly Xu graduated from Harvard Business School in 2021 with a Master's in Business Administration. She is the founder of Shelly Xu Design (SXD), a fashion-tech venture that makes 100 percent zero waste clothing designs that cost less. The brand is all about creating artful, versatile and functional pieces that not only produce no waste but also reduce the waste left by the fashion industry. Before entering Harvard Business School, Shelly worked at McKinsey, Prada and Instargram.
Lisa: What role does technology, especially AI, play in your work?
Shelly: AI helps us to make zero-waste pattern-making more scalable. Small changes, such as to the width of the fabric or the sizes, usually require us to completely rethink the pattern. Our AI can calculate these adjustments in seconds. This makes sustainable pattern-making not only possible, but also economical and suitable for mass production.
"AI can perform this task in seconds, respond to different fabric widths and sizes, and replace processes that used to take weeks or months."
Lisa: What exactly does that mean?
Shelly: The technological core of this approach consists of three elements: Zero-waste patterns, developed over many years, have been digitised and now serve as high-quality, proprietary training data. These data sets form the basis for the AI system. The AI system not only analyses patterns for 'zero waste', but also optimises several factors simultaneously, including material usage, size runs (multiple sizes on one fabric layout), efficiency and producibility. The goal is to achieve zero waste and significant material savings while maintaining design quality.
A key issue with zero-waste design has been its lack of scalability. Even minor adjustments, such as changes to fabric width or size, have necessitated a full redesign of the pattern. AI can perform this task in seconds, respond to different fabric widths and sizes, and replace processes that used to take weeks or months.
PICTURES below (from left): Zero Jumpsuit and Folding Skirt, using lightweight upcycled fabric. Copyright: Shelly Xu Design
Lisa: Your academic journey led you from studying political science and economics at Columbia University to attending Harvard Business School. How did you end up working as a designer and tech innovator, given this more traditional career path?
Shelly: I'm actually self-taught in design and have been sewing since childhood. Design has always been part of my life, even though I formally studied economics and politics. At some point, I realised that I wanted to combine creativity, technology, sustainability and business. It's at this intersection that I can flourish the most.
Lisa: You've worked at McKinsey, Prada, eBay and Instagram, among others. How have these experiences shaped your current path as a founder?
Shelly: These experiences gave me a deep understanding of how large organisations think, make decisions, and where their limitations lie. I learned how important scalability, clear processes and economic logic are. At the same time, I saw how little room there often is for fundamental innovation. Ultimately, that motivated me to build something new myself.
Lisa: Was there a defining moment in your personal history that has had a particular influence on your work today?
Shelly: Yes, definitely my childhood in China. I grew up in an extremely small apartment where we constantly had to rearrange the furniture to make the most of the space. This taught me early on to see limitations not as obstacles, but as creative opportunities. This way of thinking still shapes my work today and is the foundation of SXD.
Lisa: What is your vision for the future of fashion design?
Shelly: I would like to see our method become the new standard. Not just in fashion, but in all industries that work with flat materials. If we design more efficiently right from the first cut, we can save enormous amounts of resources and make a real contribution to climate protection.